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HOW TO LIFT A CAPRICE 5" TO CLEAR 26 on 305/30/26 and 305/35/24


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#1

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Posted 06 April 2008 - 11:10 AM

Special thanks to
TRACE, st pete, NICKLEE94, 585gorilla, crown_vic_driver, crownvic02, 00negro and the famous BIGBOIKUSTOMZ! and ECR for my motivation!


Before you read ahead i am in no way responsible for anything you do to your car. this is information of how i done it and done it ALONE. i highly recommend someone to give u a hand the more the better. you will need a tool box long socket short socket torque wrench, and a 21mm open wrench. 2 jackstand and a heavy duty jack spring compressor and a block. read the this thread to see if i miss out any other tools that might be need.let's start with the front..

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this is the full kit from bigboikits.com . it included all 4 trailing arms with the bushing, cups with shocks, the a arm, a arm bushing, upper ball joint.

tools you will need is a "INTERNAL SPRINGS COMPRESSOR" this is a must. if u dont got it u can NOT complete the job.

apply the parking brake and workin either one side of the car remove the rims and jack the car up and put a jackstand under the car on the frame.

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Remove the SWAY bar. (2) 10mm that's mount up by the radiator. and by the rotor.

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place a jack under the lower control arm and take out the cotter pin on the top and bottom ball joint bolt. take the brake line off the rotor and the sensor.

move it out the way in take out the bolt on the upper and lower ball joint then lower the jack. the rotor should comes down with the lower arm if not get a hammer

and bang on the spindes (not on any bolt or stud!!!) to bring it down off the upper ball joint. you do NOT have to remove the steering bar off the rotor but it can make ur job a bit

easier. now go back up pop the hood open and remove 2 bolt that's on the arm.

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remove the bolt and slide the stock a arm out. you going to need the bar that's install through ur

stock a arm so either u cut the a arm to slide the bar OUT or your just going to have to find a way to remove the bar. i cut mine out and remove one of the bolt and bushing since

mine was fine. install the bar into the new a arm and install a new bushing and bolt it back on. then install the a arm on the car. now compress ur SPRINGS. this is pretty dangerous so

follow the rules, understand the tools and use common sense. it should look like this

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install the CUP on top of the springs and insert it right back in. make sure u get it around the ring where it rest without touchin the frame. now jack up the lower control arm near

the lower ball joint. the spring is going to pop in the lower a arm so be careful. once the spring pop in ur gonna need to watch 2 things. ur jack liftin the lower a arm and that ur NOT

moving the car too much. in some car u might run into problem with the a arm resting on the frame the car. like this

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your going to have to notch the frame in where it's touchin till it goes as low as possible. use a hammer. bang only where the a arm touch.

lift the lower control arm up and install everything back the way it was. DO THE SAME FOR THE OTHER SIDE.

sound like piece of cake? well let me tell u.. reading this seem so simple and easy than doing it. trust me.

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NOW WE GOING TO THE BACK!

jack the back of the car up and install the jack stand and remove the wheels.

place the jack under the rear end and lift it up a bit and remove BOTH shocks bottom end then lower the jack. the springs should come out very easily.

then remove the upper bolt on the shock and lay it away. unbolt the long trailing arm and short trailling arm on the rear end and off the frame.

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place the long trailing arm on the floor and ur adjustable trailing arm on top. ur going to need to add 3/4 inch longer than stock on the trailing arm.

to measure slide a bolt thru the one end of the trailing arm to hold it in place and add 3/4 inch on the other end . install it back in and add a block under the rear end on that

side. go to the other side and do the same thing. now with those 2 long trailing arm install go ahead and install the upper trailing arm. then the shocks. compress the springs a bit and

install the cup on the rear end with the springs. DONE!

now if ur cups/springs looks like this

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then you did it wrong. on the top part of the adjustable trailing arm bring it much shorter. almost like your stock trailing arm and see that ur yoke is perfect from the transmission str8 to the rear end. this is very important. failing to do so will cause heavy vibration after 20+ mph. your cup should sit flat on the rear end and the spring should be resting on the cup.

good luck!

Edited by DefdaBoss, 20 June 2008 - 06:42 PM.


#2

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Posted 06 April 2008 - 12:42 PM

good job how long did all this take you to install

#3

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Posted 06 April 2008 - 01:30 PM

:props:

#4

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Posted 06 April 2008 - 04:38 PM

good job how long did all this take you to install


well cuz i didnt know what the hell iwas doing or seen it done or had any video. from the help with the ecr and all those people i gave thanks to. includin all the interruption and phone calls and company that keep stoppin by. 6 days. smh.. but if u really understand this thread i made u should be finish in 2 days or less

#5

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Posted 06 April 2008 - 06:14 PM

GOOD SHIT HOMIE, :o

I DIDNT READ THE WHOLE THING CUZ IM LAZY BUT GOOD LOOKING OUT

#6

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Posted 06 April 2008 - 10:53 PM

:lmao:
This is a good ass write up. I think it's the most detailed one I ever seen on installing a lift since I been on this board.

#7

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Posted 06 April 2008 - 11:12 PM

When u gonna get the 6's man? I wan't to see how ur car clears them. U take some good ass pictures man.

#8

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Posted 07 April 2008 - 10:22 AM

much props because you handled it yourself! you might just deserve sticky status...lol

#9 Guest_T-TOWN 813_*

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Posted 07 April 2008 - 12:53 PM

DONT CUPS MAKE YOUR RIDE STIFF

#10

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Posted 07 April 2008 - 02:02 PM

Any lift stiffens up the ride some. How else you gonna get the car to go up?

#11 Guest_T-TOWN 813_*

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Posted 07 April 2008 - 02:19 PM

Any lift stiffens up the ride some. How else you gonna get the car to go up?

WELL I HEARD THE RIDE IS FUCKED UP WHEN U HAVE CUPS........

#12

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Posted 07 April 2008 - 03:20 PM

B) Props on getting the job done on ur own!!

#13

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Posted 07 April 2008 - 07:33 PM

ay what size cups u got?

#14

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Posted 07 April 2008 - 09:54 PM

i've learned that as long as you have enough spindle clearance if its lift spindle or spindle etenders you dont need the front cups with a longer a arm and your new heavy duty factory coil springs cups are only needed for the rear

what? you still dont get that you wont get a lift from an extender....not crackin on ya, but its just the truth man.

#15

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Posted 08 April 2008 - 04:28 PM

thanks for the love. yeah shit was a mission doing it by myself but came out great. i should be getting the rims real soon im just holdin on to the money till i really find the real rims i want i dont wanna just go cuz it's cheap i rather get the one i really want. lately some of the rims i want dont have my pattern.

#16

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Posted 08 April 2008 - 06:48 PM

thanks for the love. yeah shit was a mission doing it by myself but came out great. i should be getting the rims real soon im just holdin on to the money till i really find the real rims i want i dont wanna just go cuz it's cheap i rather get the one i really want. lately some of the rims i want dont have my pattern.


U CAN ALWAYS GET ADAPTERS!! BUT A HEARD ITS NOT ALL THAT SAFE!! BUT IVE NEVER HAD A PROBLEM WITH EM

#17

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Posted 10 April 2008 - 11:30 PM

nah no adapter. do it right the first time.

#18

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Posted 20 June 2008 - 06:39 PM

okay i just wanna update on this lift kit i made some error. on the rear end u can see that the cup doesnt sit perfectly with the springs. my rear end was tilt back too far causin my driveshaft to have vibration at 20+ mph. make sure the yoke is center and str8 from the transmission to the rear end. basically the top part of the adjustable a arm shouldnt be adjust much.

#19

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Posted 20 June 2008 - 09:27 PM

y do u have to take the sway bar out. i still got it on mines plus i didnt notch my frame

Edited by matahead, 20 June 2008 - 09:32 PM.


#20

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Posted 23 June 2008 - 07:42 AM

y do u have to take the sway bar out. i still got it on mines plus i didnt notch my frame


Bcuz the lower trailing arms didnt come with the holes to connect it!!




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