Ask here. PLEASE don't create a thread for 1 question, we already have too much trash in this section
Edited by Audio Advice, 30 July 2009 - 05:39 PM.
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3
Headunits, Electrical, Misc.
Started by , Jul 30 2009 05:37 PM
401 replies to this topic
#1
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Posted 30 July 2009 - 05:37 PM
Questions involving misc. car audio parts such as Head Units, Batteries, Wiring, Alternators, Ect.
Ask here. PLEASE don't create a thread for 1 question, we already have too much trash in this section
Ask here. PLEASE don't create a thread for 1 question, we already have too much trash in this section
#2
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Posted 30 July 2009 - 06:05 PM
Audio Advice, on Jul 30 2009, 06:37 PM, said:
Questions involving misc. car audio parts such as Head Units, Batteries, Wiring, Alternators, Ect.
Ask here. PLEASE don't create a thread for 1 question, we already have too much e-lo in this section
Ask here. PLEASE don't create a thread for 1 question, we already have too much e-lo in this section
#4
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Posted 31 July 2009 - 10:45 AM
line drivers vs EQ's vs epicenter vs crossovers, etc..
what are differences, benefits, disadvantages of each?
what are differences, benefits, disadvantages of each?
#5
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Posted 31 July 2009 - 12:40 PM
My opinion:
Crossover & EQ should be a must in any system, especially the kind of sysytems we like. Crossover = Seperating frequencies to their correct driver and then EQ = controlling the amount of responce in the frequency range.
Line Drivers = I dont know much about, honestly.
Epicenter = Bass reconstructor. Putting bass in songs that doesnt have much bass, or extending the bass in songs that do. Some people like em, some dont, heard many times that the bass sounds "fake" , some love theirs.
Crossover & EQ should be a must in any system, especially the kind of sysytems we like. Crossover = Seperating frequencies to their correct driver and then EQ = controlling the amount of responce in the frequency range.
Line Drivers = I dont know much about, honestly.
Epicenter = Bass reconstructor. Putting bass in songs that doesnt have much bass, or extending the bass in songs that do. Some people like em, some dont, heard many times that the bass sounds "fake" , some love theirs.
#6
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Posted 31 July 2009 - 03:07 PM
well put!....we were discussing a few things on SW and i wanted some outside opinion...i've never had a line driver or epicenter.
any other input is appreciated.
any other input is appreciated.
#7
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Posted 31 July 2009 - 04:05 PM
Line driver= increases the strength of the signal coming out of your RCAs from your HU. It lets you run your amp with your gains low or all the way down and still get full output from your amps. A stronger signal, also reduces the chance of noise getting picked up.
Ive had a couple, they work well, and im considering getting another one. They really work well if you have a HU with a low signal through the RCAs.
For example, I use to run a pair of MTX 342 amps, they could handle up to 8v of input through the RCAs. My HU at the time, prob only put out around 1 or 2v, so I had to run the gains on the amps almost all the way up just to match up with the HU.
Amp would overheat regularly since the gains were so high.I addded a Audiocontrol Linedriver, and bamm, left the gains almost all the way down. Never had another issue.
I had a Epicenter as well, fun little toy for adding bass to music that normally would not have it. It does have its downfalls though, if the music your listening to already had heavy bass, sometimes it will make the bass line sound wierd, or even take it away. You also have to be careful, because the boosted bass is sometimes distorted and can overwork your subs.
However, its funny to see peoples face when you blasting the shit out of Alexander O Neal, or Sade, and its just killing the trunk
Id suggest anyone pick one of those up at least just to play around with it.
Ive had a couple, they work well, and im considering getting another one. They really work well if you have a HU with a low signal through the RCAs.
For example, I use to run a pair of MTX 342 amps, they could handle up to 8v of input through the RCAs. My HU at the time, prob only put out around 1 or 2v, so I had to run the gains on the amps almost all the way up just to match up with the HU.
Amp would overheat regularly since the gains were so high.I addded a Audiocontrol Linedriver, and bamm, left the gains almost all the way down. Never had another issue.
I had a Epicenter as well, fun little toy for adding bass to music that normally would not have it. It does have its downfalls though, if the music your listening to already had heavy bass, sometimes it will make the bass line sound wierd, or even take it away. You also have to be careful, because the boosted bass is sometimes distorted and can overwork your subs.
However, its funny to see peoples face when you blasting the shit out of Alexander O Neal, or Sade, and its just killing the trunk
Id suggest anyone pick one of those up at least just to play around with it.
Edited by teezy, 01 August 2009 - 04:22 PM.
#8
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Posted 31 July 2009 - 07:05 PM
There are other bass redonstructors for less than the epicenter for anyone wanting to know,
#10
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Posted 01 August 2009 - 05:35 PM
Power Acoustik & Soundstream have bass reconstructors for cheap and have good ratings.
#11
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Posted 02 August 2009 - 08:26 AM
FARED DIGITAL CAPACITORS do they work to keep strain off you battery im talking about the 5 FARED not the 2 FARED
#12
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Posted 02 August 2009 - 09:56 AM
We dont use capacitors. Alts and batteries should be all you need. Capacitors are usually used wrong anyways actually putting a strain on your electrical.
Edited by Audio Advice, 02 August 2009 - 03:52 PM.
#13
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Posted 02 August 2009 - 12:30 PM
whats the best way to mount a headunit so it cant be snacted out.. ive heard of a backstrap but dont know exactly what it is..
#14
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Posted 02 August 2009 - 03:54 PM
Backstrap... Im not to familiar with that. I know you have the strap to the side that keeps it from moving. I gotta check that out.
#15
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Posted 02 August 2009 - 06:33 PM
i know what he's talking about ! i got 1 from a cd player i bought brand new (dhd) they dont come with all cd players just lower end 1s. its not really a anti jacking mechanism its really for them to keep still cause they dont have a antiskip. if your tring to keep it from getting stolen get a removeable face and take it out all the time or you just remove your whole cd deck all the time or mount it under your seat
also try getting a jvc kameillion or a sony xpold cdx600 or somthing like that go to my build thread there's a youtube video posted of the sony 1 i found those screens turn all black when powered off like you dont have a cd player at all
those straps really arent strong for a anti jacking i broke it in half with my hands just so you know oh yeah in the manual it actually does say that but it wont work unless you get a stronger 1 and you mount them where you have a bolt and nut on the back of the cd player
thanks about the cap i had a deal on a 5 fared still in the package never opened for $20 and was wondeing if they really work at all i already know about h.o. alts. and bats. i was going to use them in the first place but i was seeing if i could save a lil $ if it worked since they dont im just going with plan 1
also try getting a jvc kameillion or a sony xpold cdx600 or somthing like that go to my build thread there's a youtube video posted of the sony 1 i found those screens turn all black when powered off like you dont have a cd player at all
those straps really arent strong for a anti jacking i broke it in half with my hands just so you know oh yeah in the manual it actually does say that but it wont work unless you get a stronger 1 and you mount them where you have a bolt and nut on the back of the cd player
thanks about the cap i had a deal on a 5 fared still in the package never opened for $20 and was wondeing if they really work at all i already know about h.o. alts. and bats. i was going to use them in the first place but i was seeing if i could save a lil $ if it worked since they dont im just going with plan 1
Edited by e-lo, 02 August 2009 - 06:40 PM.
#17
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Posted 03 August 2009 - 01:29 PM
e-lo, on Aug 2 2009, 07:33 PM, said:
if your tring to keep it from getting stolen get a removeable face and take it out all the time or you just remove your whole cd deck all the time or mount it under your seat
#18
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Posted 03 August 2009 - 02:22 PM
didnt know about doing that makes sesnse but like i said most not all decks have a screw and nut with it the best securty device i seen was between a blankput with a removeable credit card device in the faceplate and a pyramid deck where the whole deck was removeable that only left the mounting bracket and wire harness
#19
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Posted 03 August 2009 - 02:34 PM
Out Of Site, Out Of Mind.
I think a simple detachable face is a very good security plu, even if they get ya cd player its useless without the face so most dont bother unless they know tthe products.
I think a simple detachable face is a very good security plu, even if they get ya cd player its useless without the face so most dont bother unless they know tthe products.
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